At 7,161 m (23, 494 ft.), Mt. Pumori is the world’s 88th highest mountain. It is one of the most dramatic looking and beautiful 7,000m peaks in the world. Loved my mountaineers from around the globe, Mt. Pumori is not a particularly difficult mountain to summit. Laying only 8 km west of Mt. Everest on the Nepal-Tibet border, climbing this Himalayan giant requires trekking in the coveted Everest region. It was named Pumori by British climber George Mallory. Pumo means ‘’young girl’’ and Ri means ‘’mountain’’ in Sherpa language. So, Mt. Pumori is known as the ‘’Mountain Daughter’’, also often referred to as Everest’s daughter by climbers. Mallory also called it Clare Peak after his own daughter. Pumori is the mountain dominating the skyline behind Kalapatthar 5,555m. Since it is in the vicinity, Mt. Pumori makes for an ideal preparation climb for those aspiring to tackle technical mountains near or above 8,000m, like Mt. Everest.
Climbing Mt. Pumori ( Mt. Pumori Expedition)
In 1962, Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition made the first successful summit of Mt. Pumori. It is an increasingly popular peak to climb in the Khumbu region. Our 38-day-long Mount Pumori expedition starts in Kathmandu. We spend a few days in Kathmandu-preparing for the trip and sightseeing. The first few days of the journey involve us taking the usual Everest Base Camp trekking route. Once we land in Lukla, we trek towards Namche. We follow the classic Everest Base Camp Trail till Lobuche. From Lobuche, we head towards Pumori Base Camp. We spend three days at the base camp acclimatizing. During these three days, we make an acclimatization trip to the Everest Base Camp. Days 15 to 32 are set aside for the actual climb. We set up three camps at different altitudes- camp 1 at 5,700m camp 2 at 6,200m, and camp 3 at 6,480m.
Mt. Pumori Expedition Routes:
● We take the classic route instead of the risky one via Kalapatthar. We attempt the summit through the South East Ridge route, which is the standard route. Pumori is a Grade 3 level climb, it isn’t extremely technical but requires a certain amount of understanding of mountaineering techniques and familiarity with high altitudes. Adventure Club Trek gives acclimatization a major priority during the expedition.
● Three camps are set up above Pumori Base Camp, which is at 5,300m. A 4-hour-long climb through the glaciers brings us to our first camp at 5,700m. The second camp is set at 6,200m and requires climbing the face of Pumori at 40-60 degree slopes. The third camp is at 6,480m and we get there climbing ice walls and crevasses. It is from camp 3, we pass through crevasses and the Pumori cliff to finally make it to the summit.
Adventure Club Trek has 10+ years of experience in high altitude expeditions and engages guides and mountaineers with 15+ years of experience in the field.
We also offer Ama Dablam Expedition – 30 days for those who want a shorter expedition in the Everest region. Adventure Club Trek also organizes the expedition to Mt. Everest. Check out our Everest Expedition via South Side – 67 Days.
